Chef Peter Jozef: On Permanent Vacation

chefThe weather is fabulous. The beach? Gorgeous. There’s fresh coconut water at the bar … or this dreamy thing called a Bailey’s Comet, if one is so inclined. The Balinese are friendly, super accommodating and always seem to be smiling, especially at Samabe – the luxury beachfront resort where we were pampered nonstop for 10 days during our honeymoon. I can’t think of anything that would have made that vacation more awesome.

Except for good food.

Thankfully, there is no shortage of that coming out of Chef Peter Jozef’s kitchen. When we spoke, Samabe’s executive chef had only been in Bali about a year, having traded the gastropubs of London for this 5-star resort on the cliffs of Southern Nusa Dua.

If you believe in fate, it would be hard to argue it didn’t come into play in how he landed here. After waking up one morning, Peter, 31, decided he was bored with the lifestyle and expense of living in the United Kingdom. Or maybe it was the hangover. He quit his job and, two months later, found himself interviewing for this gig on what was then a construction site.

The funny thing is … he didn’t get the job.

The resort wanted someone with more experience to manage their restaurants, bars and enviable in-room dining menu. Like several of the young chefs we’ve interviewed, Peter didn’t go to culinary school. He began working in kitchens at 15. So the resort passed him by for someone with a more formal background.

But Samabe’s first choice didn’t work out. In my book, that’s because Adam was destined to be eating Peter’s banana tempura for breakfast. And it is at this resort in Bali where I learned to love runny eggs.

As we settle in at the property’s Te.Ja.Co Lounge & Bar, the chef orders us coconut water in Indonesian. He didn’t speak the language before arriving here, and he describes that barrier as one of the biggest obstacles he must overcome. But he’s learning, and can understand and can speak it well enough to get things done.

Language isn’t the biggest challenge, though. There’s culture, and being able to handle how people react to his position. He’s a foreigner, after all, and the Scottish-born chef had to prove himself through the diplomacy of delicious. Peter says he just kept making really good food, and eventually, his critics became allies.

eggsAnd there were other foreign concepts – like dealing with vendors. In London, he ordered his own food. In Bali, he creates his menus and then relies on the purchasing manager to source supplies. The thought of that creeps me out — almost as much as grocery delivery services. I just can’t imagine someone else picking out my kale or avocados. I have to see it … to touch it.

He stopped having fruits and vegetables imported when he arrived, opting for fresh, organic and local produce. That means plenty of luscious mangosteens, but the absence of asparagus, which has to be shipped in.

Balinese cuisine is similar to Thai, only there’s more turmeric, ginger, shallots and birds eye chilies. Add a little sweet soy sauce and garlic, and you’ve got all the ingredients to make a paste that’s the basis for most Indonesian dishes (we’ll share two recipes next month during our islands series!). Peter says he was shocked by how much of these items the restaurant goes through.

The menu for the resort’s main restaurant, Rempah-Rempah, was in place before he came on board, but he was allowed to create the menu for their seaside spot – Crystal Blue Ocean Grill. Peter says that was a learning process, too. He didn’t account for the windy environment until he watched salad blow off guests’ plates.

That didn’t faze him much, though. The sheer logistics of Chef Jozef’s plan to change the menu every three months are daunting. First, he has to write the menu. He then sends it to the printing company, wherethey make corrections – using their version of English – and then he has to correct their corrections. Then there’s 30 staff members who take two weeks to train. Peter creates two manuals for the dishes, one with exact ingredients and instructions on how to make each dish, and the other with a basic list of ingredients and a photo of the plated item. He’s never been that structured before, but says he’ll use this method for any other restaurant he ever works in.

Combine this with the responsibility for keeping track of a mountain (about 40 bookspages a week!) of paperwork, and you can see why he finds himself working until 2 a.m.

Yeah – he’s pretty much a rock star.

I asked him, when he does get time off, where he wants to be eating. He mentions Sarong in Ubud, a place he says has a great reputation for Asian fine dining. Like Peter, the head chef is also originally from Edinburgh. We followed up on this suggestion during our visit to Bali, and admit that we still have dreams about the crispy pork belly with baby mandarin, ginger chili and black vinegar caramel. There’s also Petitenget in Semenyak, he says, and the restaurants of the St. Regis Resort, crowned best in Bali.

Balinese cuisine has become Peter’s comfort food, and he admits he’s started craving babi guling. That said, he still misses the tastes of home. Like wine, which we discovered quickly ourselves how difficult it is to get (note to self: BYOW!) … and fresh cheese. And pasta — his is handmade. We got to sample that at a special dinner the chef prepared for Adam’s birthday: Macaroni and cheese with fat, slightly chewy noodles, a decadent sauce made with three different kinds of cheese, snappy garden peas, salty pancetta and a crunchy parmesan crust. I have dreams about that dish, too.

Peter says Bali is the perfect spot for hungry (you can take that literally and figuratively), young, up-and-coming chefs. It’s far easier to get a job here than with the glut of competition in London. He has no plans to leave any time soon.

I’m just sad we had to.

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Posted in In The Blue Corner, Meet The Chef : Your Big Day

Not A Fan Of The Traditional? Better Sit Your Mother Down.

All images in this post were taken by Amanda McCoy.

I know a few people whowedding3516 RSVP “yes” to weddings simply to get a piece of wedding cake. Most notably: my mother. “Hope it’s buttercream for me,” she whispers to herself as she seals the envelope.

But what if it’s not? What if it’s some crazy flavor? Or … what if there isn’t any cake at all? Quick, get your smelling salts to revive all the moms out there.

If you’re not sold on having the customary tiered cake at your wedding — have no fear. You are not alone! This is one tradition that is easy to break given the variety of dessert options to treat your guests these days. A quick Google or Pinterest search will yield many, many ideas: cupcakes, cake pops, cookie trees, truffles, even waffles and pizza. Some may not be new or avant-garde (how played out are cupcakes right now?), but they illustrate how easy it is to go against the norm and reflect your personality in your wedding dessert. The guests may actually remember what you served.

Case in point: We The Eater’s Amy and Adam. If you haven’t been reading this month … newsflash! They wed last October. Their wedding, the reception, the pre and post event activities — all of it oozed their personalities. There was no single element that more clearly represented this than the food they served. Especially the sweet treats.

Amy was not sold on having a cake at the reception from the get-go . I personally remember countless rounds of back-and-forth conversations she had with her mother, who, like all mothers I know, cannot fathom a wedding without a traditional cake. But, thankfully, she stood by her guns!

The wedding and reception all took place in the Shenandoah Valley, located in western Virginia. It was fall: The crisp cool air filled our lungs and the turning leaves made the valley come to life with warm colors painted across the rolling hills. Thus was the inspiration for their non-traditional, non-cake desserts. Yes, plural — as in multiple desserts. To be fair, they were spread throughout the events, each lending themselves perfectly to the festivities at hand.

S’MORES

wedding0147After the rehearsal dinner (which Amy’s 90-year-old grandmother made her famous carrot cake for), family and out-of-town guests were all  treated to a welcome bonfire. The stars were out and the fire, roaring. Guests bundled up in scarves and blankets enjoyed drinks … and s’mores. But not just any s’mores! No, no, no. They artfully put together a “build your own” s’mores bar. Guests could enjoy Amy and Adam’s signature flavor — the Bourbon, Bacon & Caramel S’more — or create their own using the ingredients listed below.

The spread included the following components:

  • Five different kinds of marshmallows! Northwest berry, vanilla, coconut and chocolate (obtained from Sweet Coconut Bakery) and, the star of the signature s’more, the bourbon marshmallow (obtained from Wondermade). Just smelling those things made me tipsy!
  • Regular and gluten free graham crackers (obtained from Burst Foods, who gave them a discount since they didn’t need the traditional packaging, just a big box of crackers).
  • And a bunch of fun bonus toppings, aside from the bacon: milk and dark chocolate, Reese’s peanut butter cups, Nutella, peanut butter and caramel sauce (made by Rachel, their pie chef … but more on that in a moment.)wedding0195

Not only were the s’mores delicious and fun to concoct, but the whole evening made for some special memories. Amy says it made the entire weekend.

“Having a welcome bonfire was one of the BEST things we did at our wedding – it was so much fun! It gave guests a chance to get to know each other (if they hadn’t already been to the wine tasting or canoeing), and us a chance to spend more one-on-one time with people. That was so important to us.”

Cut to the reception …

PIES … AND A SURPRISE FIT FOR A HERO

“Cake? What cake?” some mothers in attendance were overheard asking as they picked among the four flavors of miniature pies, made by Rachel Willis of Cakes by Rachel. No one even missed the traditional fare once these little beauties were revealed. Perfectly sized, we all dug in … some into more than one flavor. Others passed plates to sample the different varieties, all of which complimented the chilly fall atmosphere: caramel apple, pear frangipane with a lattice top, ginger peach with a crumble top and the perfect, simple pecan.This was way more interesting than a slice of cake. It felt special and decadent.

Amy reflects, “I knew a big frilly cake wasn’t my thing, and cupcakes just seemed like smaller versions of that. Pie was just the right fit with our vibe. That rustic, all-American crusty dessert reminded me of my gram’s baking and home. It was such a huge hit, and I’m so glad I didn’t go traditional.”

wedding3515And while there wasn’t a wedding cake, per say, there was a surprise in store for the groom. After tasting Rachel’s samples, Amy decided to surprise Adam with a groom’s cake … adorned with the Captain America shield. It was an Apple Cider Bourbon Cake filled with salted caramel crème and iced with vanilla buttercream.

“My mother thought I was nuts when I told her I didn’t want cake. But in my opinion, cake is just a vehicle for frosting. Then I tried Rachel’s cake … and oh, man – it was so good. It made my mom happy, and Adam was really touched by the surprise. He’s my Captain America, after all!”

Amy and Adam’s one pie tip would be to not have too many flavors — or variety if you have multiple desserts. For their 130 guests, Amy ordered a cake to feed 50 and 225 pies. “There was NOTHING left over. NOT. A. CRUMB,” she says. “People had several because there were so many different things to try. And that still didn’t stop them from lining up for hot cider and doughnuts!”

Fast forward many dances and drinks later …

DONUTS

Amy says the real icing on the cake for the whole Hammond083event was the parting gift to guests.

“Food is so important to us, that the only favor we ever considered was an edible one. We both love food trucks, and are committed to locally-produced, organic ingredients. When we heard about Carpe Donut, we knew it was a perfect fit.”

They hid the company’s big red truck behind some doors at the venue with a “coming soon” sign. At the right time, guests were asked to gather on the lawn. Adam and Amy thanked them for being part of their special day, then threw open the doors. The lights came on and the line was a mile long.

Amy grew up going to cider mills with her mom and brother, so this was also very personal for her. They had arranged for Carpe Donut’s red truck to serve their fresh hot apple cider donuts rolled in cinnamon sugar along with hot apple cider and thick Italian hot chocolate. The smell of freshly made donuts quickly hit our noses and we all jammed into line.

wedding3756“It was awesome,” Amy says. “We incorporated so many elements into our event that were meant to evoke fond childhood memories: a canoe trip, a campfire and s’mores, a hay ride and tiny grilled cheese appetizers. The donuts were just the exclamation point on the end of an absolutely perfect weekend – and a tasty way to thank people for being there for us.”

All in all, Amy and Adam’s choice to go non-traditional was widely embraced by the guests. From the very start of planning of planning their event, they kept coming back to what to do about this whole cake business. It just wasn’t a dessert that spoke to them. And, truth be told, there were more important matters to fret over. Coming up with alternatives was fun … and in the end, extremely rewarding. Especially for us lucky guests! Those sweet touches really made their wedding stand out.

So, if cakes don’t float your boat, don’t fret. Grab the smelling salts, sit your mother down and break the news. It will be OK. We promise.

wedding3800

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Posted in In The Blue Corner

Chef Mike Perry: The Evolution Of A Chef

This is the story about the most delicious short ribs on earth.140214_catering_miketall

No, wait. That’s my stomach getting the best of me as I type. Although you’ll hear more about those ribs in this post, we’re really here to meet a chef — Chef Mike Perry.

You usually hear about great chefs by way of the restaurants that showcase their talents. Clearly this was not the case with Chef Rock Harper, who works at D.C. Central Kitchen. Mike is another exception to that rule.

That’s not to say he hasn’t worked in restaurants. He got his start more than a decade ago. Mike, now 33, moved to Virginia from Colorado at 17. Without a degree, he saw two options: the construction site or the kitchen. He chose the latter.

His first foray into the food industry was a sandwich shop, but it wasn’t a good fit. He was eating at a local diner while mulling over his next step when saw a guy he describes as looking to be near the end of his rope. Mike – who’s just that kind of guy – put a hand on Mark Hahn’s shoulder and asked if he was alright.

Mark replied, “Can you cook?” When Mike said yes, his now-boss responded, “Do you want a job … and can you start in a few hours?”

His Second Job

The position Mark offered was with Hahn Gustafson Catering – now Harvest Moon Catering – as a short-order cook in their restaurant, Blue Moon Diner. It was there he learned how to pull a rabbit out of a hat … or pull a delicious meal out of a very tight area.

“You have a whole line of tickets, and this much space,” Mike says, indicating a small area with his hands. “It was ballsy. To this day I have a lot of respect for [being able to do] that.”

He stayed for several years before moving on to Bistro, his first experience in a formal kitchen, and the now-defunct OXO. There, Mike got his first experience working with a professionally trained chef.

Mike says he had no clue on his first day at OXO – which led to an interesting conversation with Chef John Haywood … and the realization that he had a long way to go.

Chef: “You said you could cook.”

Mike: “Can you show me what you mean by cooking?”

As the chef began to show him a whole new way of food preparation, Mike absorbed as much as he could. He pored over cookbooks, trying to figure out how the author thought and why they approached their work a certain way. All told, he was at OXO on-and-off for six years, working with Haywood and other chefs that would influence his outlook on food: Levi Mezick, Ben Thompson and Tucker Yoder – who Mike says was way ahead of his time.

“[OXO] opened my eyes to what was really happening with food,” says Mike.

140214_catering_saladWhere He Is Now

The father of three eventually landed back with Mark Hahn at Harvest Moon Catering as the chef de cuisine. That’s where we met him in early 2013, when we came in to do the tasting for our wedding, and then again nearly a year later to talk about his craft.

While we chat about my fascination with sous vide 140214_catering_salad2cooking, Mike never loses focus on the composed beet salad he’s preparing. He’s talking about slow-poached eggs, which is the first thing he made in the kitchen’s immersion circulator, and how he pairs them with parmesan baked grits and a bacon-onion relish. At the same time, he’s intensely focused assembling the dish at hand: a smear of chèvre, perfectly round-cut salt-roasted beets and crisp granny smith apples, a sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts and crumbled sable. The salad is finished after he pipes out neat white balsamic and honey gelèe dollops across the plate.

140214_catering_searHe explains as he sets it down in front of us to sample. The messy elements – the sable and hazelnuts – balance the clean lines he’s made with the apples and beets. Depending on what you put on your fork, each bite of this salad is different — and delicious.

He moves on to his main course: espresso-encrusted short ribs with a parsnip puree, which is what we ended up serving at our wedding. We chose this cut of meat after I expressed concern at our tasting about ruining a beautiful piece of meat by overcooking it, and the chance it might get cold quickly in our outdoor venue. Mike said short ribs 140214_catering_sear2were the perfect solution. He was right: perfect and delicious. His are slow-cooked for 48 hours at 64 degrees Celsius in an air-tight bag and seasoned liberally with tallo, thyme, rosemary and sage.

The crust is composed of brown butter powder, coffee, espresso, salt and coriander. He coats the cooked short ribs, then sears all sides before popping them in the oven and turning to talk to me about how he fell in love with vegetables.

Vegetables: A Love Story

Mike got an appreciation for where food comes from after helping Planet Earth Diversified‘s Mike Clark – someone he describes as a sort of mad hydroponic scientist – with a root vegetable harvest.

He describes the difficulty of pulling each vegetable from the soil while also keeping the greens intact. Then the bounty had to be washed – four times. “I could not believe the amount of work to get these ready to send in to a restaurant,” Mike says.

The experience gave him a holistic view of what food is, and the relationship between that and feeding people. “I didn’t see [cooking] as a really import thing to do,” he explains – not like a doctor. But that harvest brought him to a really thoughtful place about food and he began to care more for the food he prepared.

“All the sudden a carrot became a big deal for me,” he laughs. “Don’t burn the carrots!”

Back To The Future

Mike says he never stops learning, which is what drew him to his current position. The chance to learn how to cook for 200 people at the same time – and do it well – was a new experience. He has ideas for what’s next and has talked to Harvest Moon’s Mark Hahn about the possibility of future restaurants. But for now, he’s just happy to keep growing.

Mike’s Tips On How YOU Can Grow In The Kitchen

  1. Taste. You should try your dish through every process: raw (not meat, obviously!), while it is cooking and before you serve it. This will give you an idea about how the flavors develop.
  2. Challenge yourself. Try new things. You can find inspiration in books, but ultimately don’t get stuck thinking about food in a singular way. Growing means getting out of your comfort zone by doing something that makes you feel uncomfortable. There’s only one way to find out, says Mike. “If you don’t try, you never know.”
  3. Care about your food. It came from somewhere. Whether it grew from a seed or an egg, know that there was a process behind how it got to you and respect it.

Espresso-Encrusted Short Ribs

A special thanks to Harvest Moon 140214_catering_ribCatering and Chef Perry for their gracious hospitality, and allowing us to reprint this yummy recipe on We The Eaters.

2.5 pounds boneless short rib
1 cup demi-glace (very cold)
salt
ground black pepper
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 sprig rosemary
2 sprigs sage

Espresso Crust

2 cups instant milk powder
1/2 cup brown butter
3 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons toasted coriander
3/4 cup espresso, finely ground

Clean, portion, and season short ribs with slat and pepper. Wrap tightly and set aside in the fridge overnight.

Place short ribs in a vacuum-seal bag with the herbs and demi-glace. Be sure the demi-glace is cold so it is gelatinous. Seal the bag. Set up a water bath with an immersion circulator in a sturdy heat-proof container or appropriately sized stock pot. Cook at 64c for 48 hours.  You may need to refill the water periodically throughout this process. Keep an eye on it.

While waiting for ribs to cook, prepare the espresso crust. Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Make brown butter. Mix together warm brown butter and instant milk powder. It should feel like damp sand. Spread out on to a nonstick baking sheet and toast, stirring occasionally until the mixture is evenly golden brown. Allow to cool, then add salt, coriander, and espresso grounds to the brown butter mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired.

After 48 hours, pull the short ribs from the water bath and let rest for a minimum of 30 minutes. Once the short ribs have adequately rested, evenly coat on all sides. Heat a heavy cast iron skillet to medium heat and sear the ribs on all sides. Be careful not to burn as the espresso can become bitter. Once the short rib is seared, transfer to a rack to allow any excess fat to drip away, then place the hot short ribs on a plate or platter. Serve immediately.

IF DESIRED, once you cut open the bag of ribs, and strain the jus into a small sauce pot. Reducing to desired consistency. At the very end, you can add a little nob of butter to emulsify. Spoon the the jus over encrusted ribs before serving.

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Posted in In The Blue Corner, Meet The Chef : Your Big Day
photo credit to Aaron Otis Photography 2014


July
Watermelon is the perfect summer food. It hydrates, it cools, it's sweet and juicy. We have some great ideas for your table, including a salad, ceviche cups, popsicles and cocktails. Get ready to beat the heat with us!