An Ode To Kimchi

When I was a kid, my family didn’t eat very adventurously. Think chicken and dumplings, a bland meal I still have trouble stomaching. Chinese or Mexican were as ethnic as it got (though I credit one of my favorite restaurants on the planet, El Azteco, with my love of all things spicy!). My inner foodie longed for bigger flavors.

I started experimenting as soon as I left for college. I consider two dishes as gateway drugs along my palate-altering path: saag paneer and California rolls. It was during my pursuit of the latter, and other types of sushi, that banchan and I were introduced.

Banchan is a collection of side dishes, often served with rice, presented before a meal in a Korean restaurant. It just so happens that my favorite sushi place — and one of the few in Lansing, Mich., at the time — was a Korean sushi place.

I fell in love with these traditional sides, and the opportunity they provided to try a whole new world of flavors without the worry of ordering something questionable. They just showed up at the table: Little dishes of the weirdest, and most awesome, flavors I’d encountered in those early years of my blossoming taste buds’ great romance.

What stood out among the Banchan … image-16was Kimchi.

This fermented food dish dates back to the 7th century. Agrarian societies relied on pickling to preserve vegetables for use during cold weather months. That said, the Koreans’ talent in making different kinds of fermented foods is mentioned as early as the 3rd century in the Chinese history book, Sanguozhi. The point is: Kimchi has a long and storied history.

Originally merely a salted vegetable, and likely made with radish before cabbage, it was intended to aid in the digestion of grain. It wasn’t until the 1100s that red pepper was introduced to the recipe — which, by the 18th century, was considered an essential ingredient. Today, it is Korea’s national dish, a staple of their cuisine, and as such, part of every meal.

Which is a really good thing, because kimchi has a ton of health benefits.  How it is prepared does give it a high sodium content, but this low-calorie, high-fiber probiotic revs up metabolism, aids in digestion and reduces cholesterol, and also suppresses the growth of cancer cells. It’s packed with vitamins A and C, some B vitamins, and minerals like calcium, iron and selenium. I could go on. And on.

Though there are nearly 200 different kinds of kimchi, a few of the standard ingredients — dried shrimp and fish sauce — make this nutrient-dense super food inaccessible to vegetarians and vegans. Yes, while it may masquerade as veggie, flaunting its daikon radish legs under a frilly Napa cabbage skirt for all to see, it’s not so. But herbivores unite: After a bit of research, and some trial-and-error, the recipe below skips those ingredients so ALL of us can enjoy the benefits of this tasty dish.

Kimchi

This is a We The Eaters original recipe.

½ head Napa cabbage (found in Korean grocery stores … leaves should be bright green toward top and have frilly edges, not smooth like traditional cabbage)
1/2 cup kosher salt
3 cups baby bok choi (about three good size “clusters”), cut across the leaf in one-inch strips
3 cups daikon, cut into matchsticks
15 cloves garlic, microplaned or minced fine (yields about 1/4 cup)
1 tablespoon ginger, microplaned or minced fine
1 tablespoon red curry paste (found in asian section of most grocery stores)
2 tablespoons either fresh lemon juice or rice vinegar (lemon imparts brightness, rice vinegar is milder)
1/4 to 1/2 cup organic tamari (gluten-free soy sauce)
1 cup Korean coarse ground red pepper powder (found in Korean grocery stores, bright red, mild or spicy)
5 green onions, root removed and tops trimmed, cut on the half-inch at a diagonalimage-11
Disposable rubber gloves

Rinse and dry cabbage, peeling away dead or damaged leaves. If you purchased a full head of cabbage, divide lengthwise into two parts. Should be roughly a pound. Chop end off until core is fully removed and pieces separate when cut. Reserve all parts to boil for stock, or you can compost or discard.

Slice crosswise across the head in 1-inch thick slices. Pieces should be about two inches long or less. Place in large bowl and add 1/2 cup kosher salt and massage until cabbage begins to glisten as water is extracted. Pieces will rip apart as you massage.  Sprinkle top with salt, cover and set aside to wilt for 2 hours.image-9

When you uncover your salted veggies, you’ll find the salt has extracted quite a bit of water. Now you’ll do something that seems counterintuitive: Add cold water to bowl to completely cover cabbage.

Cut ends off bok choi, rinse and dry each leaf. Cut in 1-inch strips, width-wise, and add to the bowl (*NOTE*: As you’ll see from the pics, I massaged the bok choi along with the cabbage — but it’s too delicate for that. Adding it to the salted water instead will remedy this error.) Add daikon matchsticks and stir gently to incorporate. Cover and let sit again for 1 hour while you image-10prepare the remaining ingredients. (Next time I make this, I might reduce daikon a bit and add carrots. The great thing with Kimchi is that you can always experiment!)

Combine garlic, ginger, red curry paste, Korean red pepper powder, tamari and lemon juice or rice vinegar. You’ll want the mix to be a little wet-looking, so add a bit more tamari, lemon juice or rice vinegar as needed. The bok choi, ginger and red curry paste add the pungent, fullness of flavor typically imparted by the non-vegan ingredients. Some recipes call for a teaspoon or more of sugar, which you can add to balance the sharp, pungent spiciness of this recipe. I’m trying to cut sugar, so I didn’t. Another option would be honey, image-8or coconut nectar if you are vegan. Look at other recipes for guidance on amount.

Drain water from vegetables and rinse thoroughly in cold water. Allow to drain and gently squeeze remaining water out with paper towels. Move to large bowl.

Put on rubber gloves (I always keep some of these in my kitchen — they’re great for protecting your hands from capsaisin, the compound in chili peppers that can leave your hands stinging for hours.) Add the spice mixture incrementally to the vegetables and image-7massage through to coat thoroughly. You may not need it all, and leftovers can be used to flavor other dishes, including soup, or you can freeze it to use with your next batch of kimchi.

You can eat the kimchi now, but fermenting yields the most health benefits. To take it to the next level, pack kimchi into clean glass jars (I use mason jars and sterilize them before using.) Leave about an inch of room at the top, just to the base of the threads for the lid. Close tightly and place in a dark place for 24 to 48 hours until it is fermented. You’ll know it is ready when you open and gas is released, and when you press down on the mixture and bubbles from below image-12come to the surface. It will both smell and taste sour.

Move to refrigerator, where it will keep for weeks — and some say longer. Refrigeration slows the fermentation process, but it does continue, so the mixture will become more sour over time. If you plan to let it ferment longer like this, make sure the vegetables are submerged just beneath a bit of liquid. Mine was on the dry side, so I added some rice vinegar and a little water.

Really sour kimchi is used to make Korean soups, like Kimchi Jjigae photo-1(um, pork belly … yum!) In Korea, kimchi is fermented in a large earthenware pot called an onggi, which is buried in the ground. Just taste it every few days until you discover when it’s “done” for you. You really can’t go wrong … unless you see mold. That’s when I’d throw it away. But this shouldn’t happen if you have the liquid layer on top.

Enjoy your healthy probiotic treat, and remember to repurpose it in other recipes. Check out the list in this article from The Kitchn for ideas. Just trust me — your homemade version will be so much better than Trader Joe’s!

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Posted in In The Blue Corner

Why Fermentation?

So I saw this video about Candida recently that completely freaked me out. The symptoms of candida overgrowth align closely with many of the symptoms I’ve been having: rapid weight gain, difficulty concentrating, poor focus, irritability, chronic fatigue, eczema, severe allergies, digestive issues and more.

According to the Huffington Post, “Candida albicans is a naturally occurring, and usually benign yeast, that grows in the gastrointestinal tract.” Candida becomes a problem when it grows out of control. The result is candidiasis, which can be caused by a number of factors, including taking birth control or antibiotics, stress, or consuming a lot of carbohydrates, sugar or alcohol.

SO WHAT’S THE BIG DEAL?

The naughty, out-of-control candida bacteria living in your gut starts to crowd out the good bacteria. There’s a lot more we could go into here about the human microbiome, but in favor of keeping things simple, I reached out to Kathy McNeely, a nutrition educator and health coach. She says keeping a really good balance of bacteria in your gut is crucial, as the gut accounts for 75 percent of your body’s immune system.

“One of the things that bacteria in your gut does is help to make vitamins that are in your diet. Kale has a lot of vitamin K; bacteria in the gut helps convert that into something your body can use. Vitamin K would not activate unless it were for the gut bacteria,” McNeely says.

And everything would be okay if we were feeding ourselves with kale and other whole foods most of the time. Why? Because what you feed the bacteria is like giving guns to one side in an armed conflict.

According to McNeely, “You have good and bad actors in terms of bacteria in your gut. Feeding a lot of sugar feeds the bad bacteria—like candida.”

Certified physical trainer and natural health blogger Jeffrey “Bo” Boateng agrees. He says giving bad bacteria more sugar not only feeds it, it creates a vicious cycle.

“It gives you intense sugar cravings. It makes you more susceptible to illness. It lowers your overall energy levels. People who have a hard time losing weight have an imbalance of good bacteria to bad bacteria.”

That doesn’t mean you can’t have a cupcake. You just shouldn’t eat three <says the writer with a guilty look on her face.>

“It’s really all about balance.” McNeely adds. “If cupcakes were all you were eating, then you would be encouraging the growth of some of the negative bacteria in your gut and you’d experience a lot distress. By what you eat, you create the environment by which the good bacteria grow, and the bad bacteria grow.”

But is eating 80 percent kale and 20 percent cupcakes enough?

ENTER FERMENTED FOODS

As I started looking into what to do about the candida battle going on in my gut, probiotics and fermented foods were recurring themes. And not something I was unfamiliar with. Boateng was pushing these remedies when we trained together.

He was clearly a big fan of pickles, but said that other fermented foods and drinks—like kimchi, sauerkraut, yogurt, kombucha, kefir and miso—would help, too.

“Fermented foods cut down on your sugar cravings and get that candida—that bad bacteria—in check. It makes it easier to stay healthy in general.”

And Kathy McNeely, who also encourages her clients to eat fermented foods, says they do so much more.

“They play an important role in detoxifying some of the toxins in our environment that we might ingest—like the mercury in fish,” she says. They also help fight off cancer, reduce cholesterol and  help maintain healthy digestive function.

PROJECT DETOX

Fermented foods are one of the foundations of Project Detox, an adventure in eating offered by We The Eaters to people seeking a healthier lifestyle. We invite you to make a commitment for the next six months to learn about whole food and nutrition from us, each other and a few experts along the way.

The Facebook group where we’ll “meet” is completely private—comments are visible only to members—to encourage an open and honest dialogue. The group is completely free to anyone who wants to participate. All you have to do is sign up.

In the meantime … what’s your favorite fermented food? We’ll be exploring them on the blog this month and would love to hear your ideas. Just leave a comment below or email your submission to wetheeaters@gmail.com. Your recipe could be featured on our blog!

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Posted in In The Blue Corner

Perfectly Poached, Sparkling Clean … Dishwasher Fish

I unapologetically admit it: I cooked dinner in my dishwasher.Dishwasher Salmon2

When I first heard about the idea, it seemed as farfetched as the concept of cooking on an engine block (clearly, we now know that’s possible!) So I did a little research and found there’s a lot more to cooking in a dishwasher than one might think … including clean dishes.

Honestly, when I read about the most popular method of wrapping the fish in aluminum foil, I was a bit grossed out. Nobody likes soapy fish, and I just couldn’t imagine how the foil would protect the fish from the “elements,” so to speak. Then I read about another method involving a sealed pouch, which gave me peace of mind about avoiding an unwanted flavor profile in my dish.

That I could do … so I did: I poached salmon in my dishwasher.

Taking a cue from this video produced by Slate.com, I decided to try to cook a few side items, too. They tried rice, which requires boiling and a longer cooking time. I turned to quinoa. They tried broccoli with cheese. I settled for something simpler: carrots.

Even though I started my quinoa and carrots (in mason jars) with boiling water, neither cooked enough. I think I might try again with different foods — like bagels — that need a more humid environment, but not the higher heat.

But the fish, well … it actually worked! Other articles I read described the salmon — that pièce de résistance — as creamy, which I find to be a pretty unappetizing word. But what do I know? The texture of this fish could only be done justice with that word: creamy. It was so velvety, and unbelievably moist that I must admit that it was about the best damn salmon I’ve ever tasted.

And it was so easy!

The whole point of this exercise was to get us out of our comfort zones … and you out of yours. Try something different — even if it’s just tossing some tilapia in a pan. Or in some lemon juice (but more about that next week!)

In the meantime, we hope all this talk about fish is making your taste buds crave goodness from the sea. On August 6th, We The Eaters launches it’s first live event with Cedar Restaurant in Washington, D.C. You’ll find details about the event, and where to sign up, this coming Monday — so stay tuned!

Dishwasher Salmon

4 servings salmon
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons shallots
3-4 cloves garlic

Dishwasher Salmon4If you have a FoodSaver or sous vide system, place salmon in an appropriately sized bag and set aside. This is the preferred method to use if you are planning to save some energy and cook your dinner while doing the dishes. (If you need an alternative, you can use an oven bag– like the ones you cook turkey in. And apparently, you can actually cook your turkey in the dishwasher, too. Or keep it simple with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil.)

Finely chop shallots, rough chop capers and mince garlic … or use D0rot Crushed Garlic from Trader Joe’s, which I love! Much better than the minced stuff in jars! Combine with fresh lemon juice in a bowl.

Add to bag and vacuum seal (or add to cooking bag, squeeze out all the air and seal … or wrap salmon tightly in aluminum foil using the instructions found here.)

Place pouch in the dishwasher on the top shelf and press start. If you have an extra heat cycle, or heated dry cycle, choose that.

Remove from dishwasher and open package, using caution if there is steam. Plate and serve immediately topped with any remaining juice from package.

I checked for “doneness” by just looking at the finished product. That said, for salmon, a safe internal temperature is 140 degrees.

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Posted in In The Blue Corner
photo credit to Aaron Otis Photography 2014


July
Watermelon is the perfect summer food. It hydrates, it cools, it's sweet and juicy. We have some great ideas for your table, including a salad, ceviche cups, popsicles and cocktails. Get ready to beat the heat with us!