‘Fried Green Tomatoes,’ With A Curry Kick

Anyone who knows me well knows I’m a huge fan of ’80s/early ’90s movie nights. A cheesy flick, a few friends, some takeout and a good beer — that’s all I need for a perfect Friday fgt_ingrdnts_8988evening at home.

So when I dreamed up this month’s theme, I assumed my favorite childhood movies would be the perfect starting place for some film food fodder.

Alas, even after reviewing my old Netflix queue, I was stumped. The Lost Boys had maggots and blood. No thanks. Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom — nope, nothing tasty there; I like most foods, but I don’t do monkey brains. Other bloggers have already tried their hand at the delectables from Babette’s Feast. My memory is too rusty to recall any particular dishes from Like Water For Chocolate or Eat Drink Man Woman. And while I desperately wanted to tackle lanky Basil Fawlty’s Waldorf salad, my Eater pals (rightfully) insisted that, no, TV shows are not movies.

So there I was, tied up in knots of VCR tape, when Amy saved the day. A few months back, for one of our WTE recipe showdowns (and, if you’ll recall, my contribution featured green tomatoes), she suggested linking to the food fight scene in Fried Green Tomatoes. You know the clip — Mary Stuart Masterson throws a glass of water at Mary-Louis Parker’s face … and then the berries, chocolate and flour fly at the Whistlestop Cafe. (By the way, did you know the director intended that scene to serve as a metaphor for sex? While that makes perfect sense now, it certainly didn’t occur to me when I was 15).

The most memorable dish in Fried Green Tomatoes centers around barbecue, but, well, that’s not the kind of barbecue I have any inclination to tackle. (And if you don’t know what I’m talking about, I’m not going to give it away here, but … well, suffice it to say, it’s not pleasant — go ahead and Google it.) But, naturally, one of the cafe’s signature dishes is, yes, fried green tomatoes.

fgt_cook_drain_8995

Now, I’m from the Pacific Northwest, where — at least 20 years ago — you rarely saw fried green tomatoes on a menu. So when I first saw this film, it struck me as a pretty exotic dish. But, truth be told, I found them a bit underwhelming when I finally tried them. They’re tasty, sure, but most iterations I’ve had have been, well, a little bland.

When Amy suggested Fried Green Tomatoes as the answer to my movie menu woes, I saw a fun challenge: take a dish I’ve always really wanted to love and make a version that I actually do.

If you’re a regular WTE reader, you know that when I’m stumped on a dish, I always fall back to South Asian flavors. So why not give fried green tomatoes an Indian kick? I’ve already brought you my green tomato chutney — may as well give green tomatoes another spin.

With a little Googling, I cobbled together just what I was after: green tomatoes, dredged in spicy almond meal and cornmeal, rather than bread crumbs (yup, this recipe is gluten-free). For even more flavor, you could try these with tomatillos instead of tomatoes (I would have, but couldn’t find any tomatillos in time to give it a whirl).

Sure, these aren’t particularly Southern. But give them a try next time you sit down for a Fried Green Tomatoes movie night. They’ll warm your belly while those feisty, food fighting ladies melt your heart.

Curry-Kicked Fried Green Tomatoes

I checked out numerous fried green tomato recipes online, and was particularly influenced by this one, from Paleo Leap.

Use the biggest skillet you have for frying, because you’ll want to fry as many slices at once as possible. That’s because it’s easy for the ground spices to burn, so you don’t want the spice sediment from your first batch frying up in the oil too long. I fried one batch, then poured off the oil, wiped out the pan and heated new oil before starting the second batch. 

4 large green tomatoesfgt_donecrop_9002_edited-1
Salt
1/2 cup almond meal
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground fenugreek (optional)
2 teaspoons coriander powder
1 teaspoon amchur (dried mango powder, optional)
1 teaspoon red chili powder
Pinch sugar
1 egg
1/2 cup oil (I used coconut)

Slice the tomatoes into 1/4 inch slices. Lie them in a single layer on paper towels and sprinkle both sides with salt. Let sit for 10 minutes or so.

While you’re waiting, mix together the almond meal, cornmeal, spices, and sugar in a shallow dish. Beat the egg in a separate bowl.

Heat oil in a large pan (even better if it has tall sides) over medium heat. While it’s heating up, dry the tomatoes as best you can by pressing on them with fresh paper towels, then dip each in the beaten egg, then dredge on all sides in the meal/spice mixture, then put each slice in the skillet to fry. Flip when they’re golden brown (or darker, if you prefer) and fry on the other side. Then remove them and drain them on paper towels.

 

 

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‘Julie & Julia’: Be Unapologetically Fearless In The Kitchen

beef wellington_cutThere’s just something inherently lovable about Julia Child. Perhaps it was the voice, or her statuesque presence and personality. I like to think that it’s because she was never afraid to screw up in the kitchen.

I had an epic “uh-oh” moment myself recently. We had some houseguests from Germany who had booked a stay with us through Airbnb. They had one particular meal request during their stay: macaroni and cheese, something Thomas Jefferson is credited with having introduced to his countrymen.

What could be more American than that?

A pasta and cheese casserole recipe can be found in Liber de Coquina, a medieval Italian cookbook dating to the 13th or 14th century, but there’s apparently something unique about the dish state-side.

At least when it comes to that orange powdery stuff that comes from the blue box.

Although I refused to make that variety, I was all for whipping up some from-scratch cheesey goodness concocted with a carefully selected trio of fromage (nom nom nom) from my local Whole Foods.

I’d never made béchamel sauce before, so I was quite perplexed when it just would not thicken. I thought it was the alcohol the recipe called for. So I added more flour.

And more.

Nothing. I mean, it seemed to get thicker, but simply by virtue of how much flour I’d added. Or so I thought. Then there was this point, where I thought I was losing my mind: The sauce, heavy with savory shallots and garlic, actually started getting sweet.

That’s when I realized my “flour” was, in fact, powdered sugar.

You can stop laughing.

I mean it – not funny.

Okay, it’s a little comical, but I was pretty horrified, given the table full of guests and the candied mac ‘n cheese I was about to serve. My goose was cooked. I triaged with some whiskey, lemon juice and a bit of apple cider vinegar, which cut the dessert-like flavor to a palatable level.

Remember when I told you not to laugh? There is onebeef wellington_cooked funny thing: Our guests actually loved the meal. Several had seconds. It wasn’t until they had finished their first plate that I confessed my error. My husband insists to this day that nobody would have known if I had just lied. In Julia’s words, it was a, “Remember, you’re alone in the kitchen,” moment.

I remember watching her cooking series The French Chef on PBS as a kid and even then thinking how elegant Child was. Sometimes stuff didn’t work out quite right, but she took it all in stride with that glorious chuckle.

As I was prepping the Beef Wellington for this post, I was inspired by her triumphs in the kitchen, best imagined in this clip from Julie & Julia. I also thought of that mac ‘n cheese, and the tribulations we all face as chefs (sure, her err was purposeful – but I’d wager Madame Child burned a dish or two in the kitchen accidentally!) Cooking is fraught with peril, yet also delight, like the crunch of the pastry crust and the heady aroma of the mushroom duxelles as I cut into this perfectly cooked meal.

And no, it wasn’t a recipe I had to debone anything for. And it wasn’t a soufflé … or her Beef Bourguignon. But Julia’s Beef Wellington was a challenge … and truly a labor of love, as homage to one of my favorite chefs.

Thank you, Julia, for making cooking accessible. For the matter-of fact way you made light of our mistakes. But most of all, thanks for always being so fearless in the kitchen.

Bon Appétit.

Beef Wellington

Adapted from Julia Child’s recipe in beef wellington_platedMastering the Art of French Cooking,” with a little help from THIS article in The Wall Street Journal and THIS one on Chow.com. I’ve altered it not to improve on her masterpiece, but to appeal to my own palate and simplify the dish further for our Eaters. Plus – you all know how I feel about liver, and thus foie gras.

Marinade:

1/3 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme
1/4 teaspoon fresh sage, minced
1 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 cup dry white vermouth
1/3 cup cognac or brandy
3 pound center-cut filet mignon (beef tenderloin), trimmed

Prepare the marinade by combining all ingredients. Pour into Ziploc bag, add tenderloin, and remove air to ensure meat is fully covered. Refrigerate for 2-3 hours or overnight, flipping once. (You can swap the vermouth and cognac/brandy for a cup and a half or so of red wine if you choose, but use something you’d drink!)

Mushroom Duxelles & Wellington:

beef wellington_mushrooms2 pounds mixed mushrooms (I used cremini, shitake and white. If you have to reconstitute any mushrooms, like porcinis, reserve the liquid for the Madeira sauce.)
2 medium shallots, chopped fine
3 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Fresh ground salt and pepper, to taste

3 to 4 sprigs fresh thyme, de-sprigged
4 to 8 slices prosciutto, thick cut (like lunch meat vs. lace)
4 to 5 tablespoons truffle butter (black is cheaper, white more flavorful)
1 12-ounce package puff pastry (I prefer the Dufour brand, also mentioned in the WSJ article)
½ cup flour, or more (for rolling out pastry)
1 to 2 eggs, well beatenbeef wellington_mushrooms cooking

Remove meat from marinade (reserve if you plan to make Madiera sauce) and pat dry. Over medium-high heat, brown the meat in half the unsalted butter for about 5 to 6 minutes. Be careful not to burn butter. Remove to a plate or cutting board and allow to cool.

Add remaining unsalted butter to pan and cook shallots until translucent, about one minute. As you can see from the pic, I added mine to the mushrooms and I should have done it this way instead — so do as I say, not as I did! While shallots are cooking, rough chop mushrooms and add to food processor in batches with garlic. Pulse until chopped but not pureed. You should be able to see distinguishable pieces. Add to shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the moisture is evaporated (about 10 minutes.)  Allow to come to room temperature (about 20 minutes.)

beef wellington_preppingWhile these items are cooling, take your truffle butter out of the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature as well. If you can’t find truffle butter, you can always make your own by combining shaved/minced fresh or preserved truffles with softened unsalted butter. Just salt to taste! You can also use truffle oil, but the flavor is not as strong. (That said, I used this in place of pate or foie gras, which you may prefer.) Coat the top of the meat evenly with truffle butter.

Spread plastic wrap over a clean work surface twice as long and wide as your tenderloin. Line the center of this vertically with the prosciutto, overlapping each piece. It should be just a few inches longer than the roast. Spread the cooled duxelles mixture beef wellington_prepping3over the top and sprinkle with thyme (or you can incorporate into the duxelles before spreading if that’s easier.) Place the meat with the truffle butter side down in the middle. WTE FYI: The prosciutto helps seal in the moisture from the mushrooms, which will protect your pastry from getting mushy. Regardless, prosciutto is just so yummy!

Carefully lift the plastic wrap from the long end away from you, folding over the bottom of the meat toward you. Next, pull the sides in and carefully, but tightly tuck them under the long side (like you are making the bed.) Pull the long side closest to you snugly over to complete. The prosciutto and some of the mushrooms should wrap all the way around. If they don’t, add more prosciuttobeef wellington_prepping4 and extend mushroom mixture on sides until it does. My tenderloin was long and skinny, so this wasn’t an issue, but if yours is fatter, it might be. Wrap tightly in the plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.

(I didn’t do this next step, and my pastry suffered a bit on the bottom as a result, so I suggest including it.) Heat the over to 425 degrees. Cut off about a third of the puff pastry. On a lightly floured surface, roll it out to about 1 inch larger than your roast on all sides and about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and transfer rectangle, pricking well with a fork so it stays flat while cooking. Cook about 12 to 15 minutes on the middle rack until brown and crisp. Move to a cutting board and allow to cool.

beef wellington_prepping5Trim pastry to the size of the meat and return to the baking sheet. Remove tenderloin from refrigerator and discard plastic. Place on top of pastry. Roll out the remaining puff pastry (I had to press two sheets together) to 1/8 to 1/4 thick on a lightly floured surface. Brush the roast with egg and lay the pastry over the meat. Carefully tuck long ends under the sides of the cooked pastry, folding short ends in last. Brush with eggs at any points the pastry touches to bind. You can decorate the top with any leftover pastry if you choose, brushing with egg, then laying pastry over the top. Make some small slits with a pairing knife on the top of the Beef Wellington and brush entire pastry surface with egg before placing in the oven.

WTE FYI, PART DEUX: You can also prepare these as beef wellington_prepping6individual wellingtons by using sliced filets and repeating the same processes described here on a smaller scale. In my opinion, that would just take way too long, but the presentation would be really upscale. And very Julia.

Place the Beef Wellington on the middle rack and roast on 425 for 20 minutes. Reduce temperature to 400 degrees and continue roasting for 25 minutes (rare to medium rare) or 30-35 minutes (medium). Use a meat thermometer in an inconspicuous place to test doneness. If the Wellington begins to brown too much before it is finished cooking, cover with aluminum foil. Remove from oven and let stand for 10 minutes before cutting.

Serve drizzled with Madiera Sauce, if desired.beef wellington_prepping7

Julia’s Madiera Sauce:

Reserved marinade
2 cups beef broth
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 tablespoon cornstarch
¼ cup Madeira

Simmer the reserved marinade and any juices from reconstituting mushrooms withbeef wellington_prepping9 beef broth and tomato paste until reduced to two cups – about an hour. Remove any grease and thicken with cornstarch mixed with Madiera. Viola.

LAST-BUT-NOT-LEAST WTE TIP: I like the sound of the Mushroom Gravy from the Wall Street Journal recipe, too. Though I didn’t try either, I think I would try the Madiera Sauce first; the Wellington already has a lot of that flavor to it, especially with my truffle butter addition. I think the tartness of the wine would be a nice complement.

 

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When Harry Met Sally: No Pepper On This Paprikash!

There are two scenes that everyone remembers from When Harry Met Sally – the fake orgasm scene at Katz’s Delicatessen, and this scene, where Harry informs Sally in a hilarious eastern European accent, “I have decided that for the rest of the day, we are going to talk like thees.”

Please, to repeat after me:

“Waiter, there is too much pepper on my paprikash, but I would be proud to partake of your pecan pie.”

Now, since I’m a much better cook than a baker, I’ll leave the pecan pie to my fellow foodies and my husband’s grandmother in Fort Worth. But let’s talk about that paprikash, shall we?

IngredientsPaprikash, correctly spelled paprikás, is probably the most well-known Hungarian food after gulyás. That’s the hearty herdsman’s soup that, after its arrival in America in the early 20th century, became known as goulash and evolved into something resembling Hamburger Helper (but that’s a whole ‘nother blog post!)

Paprikás is a classic Hungarian dish of stewed chicken or boneless veal in a creamy, paprika-rich sauce. It is most often served with spaetzle–like dumplings called nokedli or galuska, and a little uborkasaláta (cucumber salad) on the side.

Full disclosure: I’m a first-generation Hungarian-American, born and raised in central New Jersey. There’s still a very active Hungarian community there, as seen in “Pigs Blood and Paprikash” of Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre Foods America.

If you’ve ever seen My Big Fat Greek Wedding, just replace Greek with Hungarian and that was my childhood. I went to public school during the week, but weekends were all Hungarian, all the time. On Friday nights I had Hungarian Scout meetings and folk dance rehearsals. Saturday mornings meant Hungarian school, and then there was Hungarian Sunday school and church services on Sundays.

I left New Jersey to attend college and seek my fortune, and as fate would have it, married a non-Hungarian guy from Texas. When he saw that movie, he immediately identified with the culture shock that Toula’s non-Greek husband experienced. My family may not be as big as Toula’s, but we can be loud and opinionated, and good food is central to our life.

“Hey Chad, are you hungry?”

“No thanks, I just ate.”

“OK, I make you something!”

I was raised on my mom’s cooking. It’s her húsleves, which my kids call “Mama soup,” and her chicken paprikás with nokedli that I’d want for my last meal on this earth. Much of Hungarian cuisine can be described as hearty, rib-sticking comfort food, which is why I mainly cook it in the fall and winter.  But anytime is a good time for paprikás.

Chicken Paprikás

Like most Hungarian Paprikas_1mothers and grandmothers, my mom doesn’t use recipes (except when baking.) I learned to make the paprikás featured here and other Hungarian dishes by watching her cook – all by eye and hand: a little of this, a bit of that and cook until done! Over the years I’ve also incorporated what I’ve learned from Hungarian cookbooks and food writers, like George Lang, Susan Derecskey, Carolyn Bánfalvi, Lajos Mari and others.

Like most Hungarian food, paprikás contains just a few simple ingredients, but quality and technique are everything. For example, forget that ancient canister of McCormick’s paprika that you use for sprinkling on deviled eggs. Smoked paprika, while wonderful, won’t do either. You need the real thing. Pride of Szeged and Kalocsa are fine, and they are available in most supermarkets, but consider ordering from Penzey’s or The Spice House. For a good primer on Hungarian paprika, click here.  You’ll see other tips below.

2 tablespoons lard or oil (Lard if you’re old-school, oil if you’re health conscious)
2 large yellow onions
2 to 3 tablespoons of fresh, sweet Hungarian paprika (Yes, you read that right! 2 to 3 tablespoons!)
2 pounds of chicken pieces, preferably legs and thighs, bone-in and skin-on (You really need the bones and skin for flavor and consistency, but feel free to remove before serving.  Free-range, organic chicken has the best flavor.)
Salt, to taste
1 tomato, as red and ripe as possible
1 pepper (Green bell peppers don’t have the right flavor or texture. For authenticity, use sweet Hungarian white peppers, which are often available at farmer’s markets in the summer. If you can’t find them, pale green Italian frying peppers or Cubanelles make a fine substitute.)
1 tablespoon flour
3 to 4 tablespoons sour cream (Full-fat is preferred. Some versions of paprikás use heavy cream for thickening, but this is the peasant version, á la my mom.)

Chop the onions, tomato and green pepper as finely as possible. Heat the lard or oil in a heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid. Throw the onions into the pot, stir well and sauté slowly until the Paprika_goes_inonions are very soft and translucent, but don’t brown them! You want them to become so soft that their presence won’t be discernible in the finished dish (that’s one of the secrets to Hungarian cooking – sautéing the onions slowly so that they almost melt and give body to the sauce. Some cooks even cover the pot while the onions cook to ensure that they don’t brown.)

Add the chopped tomato and pepper to the onions, and sauté until softened. Now remove the pan from the heat and stir in the paprika. It’s very important that you do this off the heat, otherwise the high sugar content of good Hungarian paprika will cause it to burn and become bitter. Season with salt to taste.

Return the pot to the heat; add the chicken and about 1/2 cup of water and sear on medium-high for about 5 or 10 minutes, turning as needed. It won’t brown, but that “raw” color will disappear. Reduce heat to low, cover the pot and simmer until tender and cooked through — about 40 minutes — adding a bit more water if necessary. Remove the chicken from the pot and keep covered in a warm place while you finish the sauce.

Whisk the flour into the sour cream until smooth, then whisk into the sauce until it thickens. Do not boil the sauce once you’ve added the sour cream! The sauce should not be too thick, but more a consistency that’s just a bit thicker than heavy cream. Return the chicken to the pot and coat with the sauce.

Serve hot over spaetzle, nokedli (recipe below), or wide egg noodles with cucumber salad (recipe below) on the side, and some good, full-bodied Hungarian red wine. Jóétvágyat (that’s Hungarian for bon appetit)!

Nokedli

While the paprikás is simmering, mix up these little dumplings. If you have a spaetzle maker, this is the time to use it. If not, keep reading! When the paprikás is done, steal a couple of spoonfuls of the sauce before adding the sour cream-flour mixture. You’ll toss it with the finished nokedli to keep them from sticking together. If you’re short on time, as I often am, serve the paprikás over wide egg noodles – it will still be delicious!

3 cups flourNokedli
2 teaspoons salt
2 eggs
Water, as needed, to get the right consistency

Combine flour and salt with a wooden spoon in a deep mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add the eggs. Beat well with the wooden spoon until smooth (this will take some elbow grease – I usually do this standing up, with the bowl tucked in my left arm).

Add water, a little at a time, until the dough is smooth and elastic. It should be thick, but not stiff. Cover the bowl and let the batter relax for about 10 minutes.Finished_nokedli

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. If you’re using a spaetzle maker, put the batter into the hopper and slide it back and forth so the dumplings drop into the boiling water. Alternatively, put the batter into a colander with large holes and agitate the batter with the wooden spoon to push the dumplings through the holes. If you want to go medieval, tear off small bits of the batter with a spoon and drop them into the boiling water. Or put the batter onto a small cutting board and flick small pieces into the water with a sharp knife.

The nokedli are done when they float to the top of the water. Drain them, transfer them to a bowl, and toss them with a little of the reserved paprikás sauce. Serve topped with the paprikás.

Uborkasaláta (cucumber salad)

Hungarians are an opinionated bunch. Start a conversation about politics, food or just about any other topic, and just see what happens! Uborkasaláta is a perfect example: Should it be on the sweet side, or more sour? Should it have thin-sliced onions or peppers mixed in? What about garlic? Sour cream?  Every Hungarian has a different way with uborkasaláta, so feel free to improvise! Everything is optional except the cucumbers, salt, water, sugar and vinegar.

3 to 4 Kirby cucumbers or 1 large English cucumber (I find these work better than the typical waxy cucumbers.)
3/4 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 small clove fresh garlic, minced (Garlic is a must for me!)
2 to 3 thin slices of white or red onion, separated into rings
1 small Hungarian white pepper or Cubanelle pepper, thinly sliced into rings
1 cup water
Sugar
3 tablespoons white vinegar (I’ve also used rice wine vinegar – definitely not Hungarian, but very good!)
3/4 teaspoon table salt
Sour cream, for garnish
Sweet Hungarian paprika, for garnish

Peel the cucumbers, or not, according to your preference. Slice them very thinly, using a mandoline or a sharp knife. Place them in a bowl and sprinkle with coarse salt and allow to sit for about 15 minutes. The salt will draw out the liquid and soften the cucumbers. Drain off the accumulated liquid, lightly squeezing the cucumbers with your hands before transferring to a serving dish. Add the garlic, onion and/or pepper, if using.

Make your dressing by combining the water, sugar, vinegar, and salt.  Start with a cup of water, a teaspoon of sugar, about three tablespoons of vinegar and around 3/4 teaspoon of salt. Stir well, taste, and adjust the sugar, vinegar and salt to your liking. The trick is to keep tasting until it’s right. When you are happy with it, pour the dressing over the cucumbers, let the salad sit 30 minutes to an hour.

Just before serving, garnish with sour cream and/or paprika, if using. Serve alongside the paprikás.

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photo credit to Aaron Otis Photography 2014


July
Watermelon is the perfect summer food. It hydrates, it cools, it's sweet and juicy. We have some great ideas for your table, including a salad, ceviche cups, popsicles and cocktails. Get ready to beat the heat with us!