Chef Peter Jozef: On Permanent Vacation

chefThe weather is fabulous. The beach? Gorgeous. There’s fresh coconut water at the bar … or this dreamy thing called a Bailey’s Comet, if one is so inclined. The Balinese are friendly, super accommodating and always seem to be smiling, especially at Samabe – the luxury beachfront resort where we were pampered nonstop for 10 days during our honeymoon. I can’t think of anything that would have made that vacation more awesome.

Except for good food.

Thankfully, there is no shortage of that coming out of Chef Peter Jozef’s kitchen. When we spoke, Samabe’s executive chef had only been in Bali about a year, having traded the gastropubs of London for this 5-star resort on the cliffs of Southern Nusa Dua.

If you believe in fate, it would be hard to argue it didn’t come into play in how he landed here. After waking up one morning, Peter, 31, decided he was bored with the lifestyle and expense of living in the United Kingdom. Or maybe it was the hangover. He quit his job and, two months later, found himself interviewing for this gig on what was then a construction site.

The funny thing is … he didn’t get the job.

The resort wanted someone with more experience to manage their restaurants, bars and enviable in-room dining menu. Like several of the young chefs we’ve interviewed, Peter didn’t go to culinary school. He began working in kitchens at 15. So the resort passed him by for someone with a more formal background.

But Samabe’s first choice didn’t work out. In my book, that’s because Adam was destined to be eating Peter’s banana tempura for breakfast. And it is at this resort in Bali where I learned to love runny eggs.

As we settle in at the property’s Te.Ja.Co Lounge & Bar, the chef orders us coconut water in Indonesian. He didn’t speak the language before arriving here, and he describes that barrier as one of the biggest obstacles he must overcome. But he’s learning, and can understand and can speak it well enough to get things done.

Language isn’t the biggest challenge, though. There’s culture, and being able to handle how people react to his position. He’s a foreigner, after all, and the Scottish-born chef had to prove himself through the diplomacy of delicious. Peter says he just kept making really good food, and eventually, his critics became allies.

eggsAnd there were other foreign concepts – like dealing with vendors. In London, he ordered his own food. In Bali, he creates his menus and then relies on the purchasing manager to source supplies. The thought of that creeps me out — almost as much as grocery delivery services. I just can’t imagine someone else picking out my kale or avocados. I have to see it … to touch it.

He stopped having fruits and vegetables imported when he arrived, opting for fresh, organic and local produce. That means plenty of luscious mangosteens, but the absence of asparagus, which has to be shipped in.

Balinese cuisine is similar to Thai, only there’s more turmeric, ginger, shallots and birds eye chilies. Add a little sweet soy sauce and garlic, and you’ve got all the ingredients to make a paste that’s the basis for most Indonesian dishes (we’ll share two recipes next month during our islands series!). Peter says he was shocked by how much of these items the restaurant goes through.

The menu for the resort’s main restaurant, Rempah-Rempah, was in place before he came on board, but he was allowed to create the menu for their seaside spot – Crystal Blue Ocean Grill. Peter says that was a learning process, too. He didn’t account for the windy environment until he watched salad blow off guests’ plates.

That didn’t faze him much, though. The sheer logistics of Chef Jozef’s plan to change the menu every three months are daunting. First, he has to write the menu. He then sends it to the printing company, wherethey make corrections – using their version of English – and then he has to correct their corrections. Then there’s 30 staff members who take two weeks to train. Peter creates two manuals for the dishes, one with exact ingredients and instructions on how to make each dish, and the other with a basic list of ingredients and a photo of the plated item. He’s never been that structured before, but says he’ll use this method for any other restaurant he ever works in.

Combine this with the responsibility for keeping track of a mountain (about 40 bookspages a week!) of paperwork, and you can see why he finds himself working until 2 a.m.

Yeah – he’s pretty much a rock star.

I asked him, when he does get time off, where he wants to be eating. He mentions Sarong in Ubud, a place he says has a great reputation for Asian fine dining. Like Peter, the head chef is also originally from Edinburgh. We followed up on this suggestion during our visit to Bali, and admit that we still have dreams about the crispy pork belly with baby mandarin, ginger chili and black vinegar caramel. There’s also Petitenget in Semenyak, he says, and the restaurants of the St. Regis Resort, crowned best in Bali.

Balinese cuisine has become Peter’s comfort food, and he admits he’s started craving babi guling. That said, he still misses the tastes of home. Like wine, which we discovered quickly ourselves how difficult it is to get (note to self: BYOW!) … and fresh cheese. And pasta — his is handmade. We got to sample that at a special dinner the chef prepared for Adam’s birthday: Macaroni and cheese with fat, slightly chewy noodles, a decadent sauce made with three different kinds of cheese, snappy garden peas, salty pancetta and a crunchy parmesan crust. I have dreams about that dish, too.

Peter says Bali is the perfect spot for hungry (you can take that literally and figuratively), young, up-and-coming chefs. It’s far easier to get a job here than with the glut of competition in London. He has no plans to leave any time soon.

I’m just sad we had to.

Tagged with: , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in In The Blue Corner, Meet The Chef : Your Big Day

Chef Mike Perry: The Evolution Of A Chef

This is the story about the most delicious short ribs on earth.140214_catering_miketall

No, wait. That’s my stomach getting the best of me as I type. Although you’ll hear more about those ribs in this post, we’re really here to meet a chef — Chef Mike Perry.

You usually hear about great chefs by way of the restaurants that showcase their talents. Clearly this was not the case with Chef Rock Harper, who works at D.C. Central Kitchen. Mike is another exception to that rule.

That’s not to say he hasn’t worked in restaurants. He got his start more than a decade ago. Mike, now 33, moved to Virginia from Colorado at 17. Without a degree, he saw two options: the construction site or the kitchen. He chose the latter.

His first foray into the food industry was a sandwich shop, but it wasn’t a good fit. He was eating at a local diner while mulling over his next step when saw a guy he describes as looking to be near the end of his rope. Mike – who’s just that kind of guy – put a hand on Mark Hahn’s shoulder and asked if he was alright.

Mark replied, “Can you cook?” When Mike said yes, his now-boss responded, “Do you want a job … and can you start in a few hours?”

His Second Job

The position Mark offered was with Hahn Gustafson Catering – now Harvest Moon Catering – as a short-order cook in their restaurant, Blue Moon Diner. It was there he learned how to pull a rabbit out of a hat … or pull a delicious meal out of a very tight area.

“You have a whole line of tickets, and this much space,” Mike says, indicating a small area with his hands. “It was ballsy. To this day I have a lot of respect for [being able to do] that.”

He stayed for several years before moving on to Bistro, his first experience in a formal kitchen, and the now-defunct OXO. There, Mike got his first experience working with a professionally trained chef.

Mike says he had no clue on his first day at OXO – which led to an interesting conversation with Chef John Haywood … and the realization that he had a long way to go.

Chef: “You said you could cook.”

Mike: “Can you show me what you mean by cooking?”

As the chef began to show him a whole new way of food preparation, Mike absorbed as much as he could. He pored over cookbooks, trying to figure out how the author thought and why they approached their work a certain way. All told, he was at OXO on-and-off for six years, working with Haywood and other chefs that would influence his outlook on food: Levi Mezick, Ben Thompson and Tucker Yoder – who Mike says was way ahead of his time.

“[OXO] opened my eyes to what was really happening with food,” says Mike.

140214_catering_saladWhere He Is Now

The father of three eventually landed back with Mark Hahn at Harvest Moon Catering as the chef de cuisine. That’s where we met him in early 2013, when we came in to do the tasting for our wedding, and then again nearly a year later to talk about his craft.

While we chat about my fascination with sous vide 140214_catering_salad2cooking, Mike never loses focus on the composed beet salad he’s preparing. He’s talking about slow-poached eggs, which is the first thing he made in the kitchen’s immersion circulator, and how he pairs them with parmesan baked grits and a bacon-onion relish. At the same time, he’s intensely focused assembling the dish at hand: a smear of chèvre, perfectly round-cut salt-roasted beets and crisp granny smith apples, a sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts and crumbled sable. The salad is finished after he pipes out neat white balsamic and honey gelèe dollops across the plate.

140214_catering_searHe explains as he sets it down in front of us to sample. The messy elements – the sable and hazelnuts – balance the clean lines he’s made with the apples and beets. Depending on what you put on your fork, each bite of this salad is different — and delicious.

He moves on to his main course: espresso-encrusted short ribs with a parsnip puree, which is what we ended up serving at our wedding. We chose this cut of meat after I expressed concern at our tasting about ruining a beautiful piece of meat by overcooking it, and the chance it might get cold quickly in our outdoor venue. Mike said short ribs 140214_catering_sear2were the perfect solution. He was right: perfect and delicious. His are slow-cooked for 48 hours at 64 degrees Celsius in an air-tight bag and seasoned liberally with tallo, thyme, rosemary and sage.

The crust is composed of brown butter powder, coffee, espresso, salt and coriander. He coats the cooked short ribs, then sears all sides before popping them in the oven and turning to talk to me about how he fell in love with vegetables.

Vegetables: A Love Story

Mike got an appreciation for where food comes from after helping Planet Earth Diversified‘s Mike Clark – someone he describes as a sort of mad hydroponic scientist – with a root vegetable harvest.

He describes the difficulty of pulling each vegetable from the soil while also keeping the greens intact. Then the bounty had to be washed – four times. “I could not believe the amount of work to get these ready to send in to a restaurant,” Mike says.

The experience gave him a holistic view of what food is, and the relationship between that and feeding people. “I didn’t see [cooking] as a really import thing to do,” he explains – not like a doctor. But that harvest brought him to a really thoughtful place about food and he began to care more for the food he prepared.

“All the sudden a carrot became a big deal for me,” he laughs. “Don’t burn the carrots!”

Back To The Future

Mike says he never stops learning, which is what drew him to his current position. The chance to learn how to cook for 200 people at the same time – and do it well – was a new experience. He has ideas for what’s next and has talked to Harvest Moon’s Mark Hahn about the possibility of future restaurants. But for now, he’s just happy to keep growing.

Mike’s Tips On How YOU Can Grow In The Kitchen

  1. Taste. You should try your dish through every process: raw (not meat, obviously!), while it is cooking and before you serve it. This will give you an idea about how the flavors develop.
  2. Challenge yourself. Try new things. You can find inspiration in books, but ultimately don’t get stuck thinking about food in a singular way. Growing means getting out of your comfort zone by doing something that makes you feel uncomfortable. There’s only one way to find out, says Mike. “If you don’t try, you never know.”
  3. Care about your food. It came from somewhere. Whether it grew from a seed or an egg, know that there was a process behind how it got to you and respect it.

Espresso-Encrusted Short Ribs

A special thanks to Harvest Moon 140214_catering_ribCatering and Chef Perry for their gracious hospitality, and allowing us to reprint this yummy recipe on We The Eaters.

2.5 pounds boneless short rib
1 cup demi-glace (very cold)
salt
ground black pepper
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 sprig rosemary
2 sprigs sage

Espresso Crust

2 cups instant milk powder
1/2 cup brown butter
3 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons toasted coriander
3/4 cup espresso, finely ground

Clean, portion, and season short ribs with slat and pepper. Wrap tightly and set aside in the fridge overnight.

Place short ribs in a vacuum-seal bag with the herbs and demi-glace. Be sure the demi-glace is cold so it is gelatinous. Seal the bag. Set up a water bath with an immersion circulator in a sturdy heat-proof container or appropriately sized stock pot. Cook at 64c for 48 hours.  You may need to refill the water periodically throughout this process. Keep an eye on it.

While waiting for ribs to cook, prepare the espresso crust. Preheat the oven to 275 degrees. Make brown butter. Mix together warm brown butter and instant milk powder. It should feel like damp sand. Spread out on to a nonstick baking sheet and toast, stirring occasionally until the mixture is evenly golden brown. Allow to cool, then add salt, coriander, and espresso grounds to the brown butter mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired.

After 48 hours, pull the short ribs from the water bath and let rest for a minimum of 30 minutes. Once the short ribs have adequately rested, evenly coat on all sides. Heat a heavy cast iron skillet to medium heat and sear the ribs on all sides. Be careful not to burn as the espresso can become bitter. Once the short rib is seared, transfer to a rack to allow any excess fat to drip away, then place the hot short ribs on a plate or platter. Serve immediately.

IF DESIRED, once you cut open the bag of ribs, and strain the jus into a small sauce pot. Reducing to desired consistency. At the very end, you can add a little nob of butter to emulsify. Spoon the the jus over encrusted ribs before serving.

Tagged with: , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in In The Blue Corner, Meet The Chef : Your Big Day

Chef Lee Vance: Dinner Is Her Specialty

Lee
Photo by Carlin Sundell, courtesy of Lee Vance.

Chef Lee Vance abandoned an education pointed toward a counseling career for one in the culinary world. But with Lee, preparing “comfort” food is more like performing food therapy!

Lee grew up in an Italian home, where helping to prepare family meals instilled a deep love of cooking. She would eventually attend the Oregon Culinary Institute, then spend time traveling and trying out various roles in the industry.

Inspiration Behind Dinner

It was in Oklahoma City where she found her passion working as a server at Ludivine, under chefs Jonathan Stranger and Russ Johnson. The restaurant was one of the first organic farm-to-table restaurants in that area.  Customers were not used to that kind of cooking.

“Selling something like bone marrow to an Oakie was a huge challenge,” Lee says, “But once I got them, I had them.”

Her experience with these trailblazers piqued Lee’s interest. She returned to Oregon and opened a booth in a farmers’ market, serving whatever she could source from the local farmers on Friday nights. That translated into her restaurant, Dinner at the Nehalem River Inn, where she continued to take local sourcing and superior service to a new level.

That’s where we met.

dinner2Dining At Dinner

Lee was working at a bit of a disadvantage that night. I’d just proposed to the love of my life, and the two of us had just experienced one of the best days of our lives, filled with helicopter rides, beautiful beaches and awesome margaritas.  Enter Lee, who flawlessly combines stellar cooking with an unblinking focus on guest experience. She was able to put an exclamation point at the end of the perfect day!

Lee surprised us by creating a personalized menu for our private meal at Dinner. Our first course was bone marrow served with mustard and pickled onion. There’s a reason they call it meat butter! It was my first experience with the stuff, and nothing short of decadent. The next course was fresh-caught, meaty steelhead trout with arugula salad with pecorino romano and arugula flowers. The texture of that fish is something I won’t soon forget. I’ve never been much of a trout person, but this experience would influence one of the offerings Amy and I would have at our reception several months later.

The third course was perfectly cooked, fork-tender braised rabbit leg and fluffy gnocchi with a rich, mustard cream sauce and earthy morels.Lee raised the bar with the final course, offering seared duck breast with fiddle head ferns and bacon-braised radicchio. Every bite played off the last, with the earthiness of the duck as the antitheses of the tart snap of radicchio and bright snap of the rabbitfiddle heads. It kind of felt like being on Iron Chef, as each course played well with the last, but stood alone as unique and delicious dishes in their own right.

And as if that weren’t enough, this Olympic fare was finished with one of my new fiancee’s favorite desserts: pots de crème. You’ll find Lee’s recipe for that below.

Of course, Lee herself was just as sweet, playing host and server, sparing nothing to make our engagement “Dinner” the most incredible experience. Amy and I have a return trip to the Oregon coast bookmarked, if only to make it back to visit her new space in Manzanita.

Dinner Goes Coastal

Dinner’s new location comes with new challenges. Lee is familiar with breaking new ground from her Ludivine days, but in this coastal location she’ll face the opposite problem: The area is saturated with farm-to-table efforts. To overcome this, she has closely partnered with an organic farm. These days, you don’t have to sell your customers on the benefits of local and organic — the challenge is sourcing it to secure your own stash among many competitors.

Lee says you can’t call “dibs” on your source for great ground lamb. However, since it’s such a small community, there’s still a very cooperative atmosphere amongst the farm-to-table restaurant owners. “There is a lot of support,” Lee says. “You don’t need to be a shark.”

Part of Lee’s mission is sourcing proteins from animals that have been treated ethically. Since she’s going directly to farms to get the meat and developing relationships with people that care for the animals, she gets to see first-hand how they’re treated. On the farms she works with, animals roam freely.

“Tons of acres with sheep roaming … and cattle. And chickens out in a field — they are totally free to just be chickens. When you know the animal was happy you really get to enjoy it.”

Another aspect that helps Lee stand out is her focus on customer service.  She worked as a server for so long, her perspective as a chef is different. To her, it’s all about the customer. Lee gets to know her clientele, and they often inspire her menus. That keeps them, like us, coming back for more.

Ultimately, she says, “If you don’t have a guest, you don’t have a business.”

Lee Shares Her Tips

  1. Trust yourself in the kitchen. Trust yourself to know when something is done. And don’t be afraid of butchering — everything is made to be taken apart, she says. Look things up, but understand that a lot of cooking is intuitive.
  2. Having a sharp knife is key. You can’t get anything done without one. Pair it with an appropriate cutting board: There are no glass or marble cutting boards in the real world. It’s not hard to figure out why your knife is dull if you’re cutting on a marble countertop.
  3. Let the season inspire your menus.Know what’s in season, Lee says. Learn about what grows where you live and how to forage. It’s not worth getting tomatoes and berries when they are not in season. If you can learn a couple of local, native plants that you can eat (be careful!) then go for it.

You can follow Dinner on Facebook and Instagram. You’ll find your mouth watering by visiting their website. A special thanks to Chef Lee Vance for taking the time to speak with us, and for making the day of our proposal so memorable.

Pot de Creme
Recipe courtesy of Chef Lee Vance and her farm-to-table pot de cremerestaurant, Dinner, coming soon to Manzanita, Ore.

1 pound 68 percent dark chocolate pieces
9 egg yolks
3 cups cream
2 cups half-and-half
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup sugar
Pinch salt

In a pan, combine cream, half-and-half, sugar, vanilla and salt and slowly bring to a boil. While the cream mixture is heating, whisk egg yolks in a large mixing bowl until combined.

Add chocolate to hot cream and whisk until glossy and thoroughly melted. Once it has melted completely, pull the pan off the stove and slowly temper the egg yolks with the chocolate mixture. Add very slowly at first, whisking while you pour. Once mixed together, ladle into jars (I use 8-ounce mason jars).

Makes about 12 to 14 6-ounce portions.

Tagged with: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Posted in In The Blue Corner, Meet The Chef : Your Big Day
photo credit to Aaron Otis Photography 2014


July
Watermelon is the perfect summer food. It hydrates, it cools, it's sweet and juicy. We have some great ideas for your table, including a salad, ceviche cups, popsicles and cocktails. Get ready to beat the heat with us!